I take it back, the Dritz eyelets worked quite well. Just took a deal of time, using tailor's awl, cutting, fray-checking and installing each eyelet.
Next time I'll make a size 12, since this is only moderately-laced and the back is about to meet at the waist. I think the rule of thumb is at least a couple inches even with tight-lacers (which I am not).
I am glad I went with the gusset variation, since my breasts are a bit crushed in this, but hey, it gives you the cleavage (nicely hidden by the chemise). Not to be worn without under layer or over layer, for certain.