Friday, January 21, 2011

THE VICTORIAN DRESS PROJECT: Part II (Pattern Consideration)

The dresses I am considering making (from the authentic pattern draft collections of Kristina Harris-books mentioned previously)...

          Fall 1890

I like this piece for several reasons. Primarily, the 'girdle' pleated underbust portion of the bodice adds quite a bit of interest. And I've done pleats, but never horizontally as part of a bodice... (the buckle used as a decorative front closure could prove a severe problem in acquiring, however)

I think part of the appeal, however is the design work of the fabric in this sketch. And that is something I simply would never find, no matter how long I searched. Although, it would allow for the opportunity for some hand embroidery if I opted for a solid silk taffeta. And I do indeed enjoy embroidery (and have the time on my hour-plus bus commute to and from work).

This is not a 'street costume' per say. However, if I am hosting tea for my birthday, perhaps it would be more appropriate...

  Fall 1890 

I like the lines in this piece. The texture of the bolero and underskirt, however, do not. I would probably use a smoother fabric that was still visually interesting/textured. Or leave it as a straight silk to contrast the bodice, waist and drapes... Hmm...would depend on the fabric I could find, I guess. Either way, some potential in this piece...

This would be more of what I was originally thinking, as well... a 'street costume' or 'day'/'walking' dress for outings. 

    Spring 1891

Classic skirts, shirtwaist and modest sleeves (not to the leg-of-mutton phase). But what appeals to me most about this particular piece is that the jacket is double-breasted... Don't know why, but my weakness for jackets is especially susceptible to this fashion trend/trait.

Not sure how I feel about the 'pocket lap' however. I think it would be lacking in character without them, however.

This would not be a good costume for summer wear, since the jacket would necessitate a heavier fabric choice...

   Spring 1891 

This is just so very classic late Victorian. Simple, modest, with almost an Old West feel to it. Gorgeous lines, drapery. Very elegant while being conservative. 

A traditional, shirred shirtwaist, full draped skirts, cute jacket. 

I'm liking this one.

   Spring 1894

Very Late Victorian, with iconic leg-of-mutton sleeves, shirtwaist with yokes, and standard full skirts.

Not sure I'm ready for those sleeves...

I'm short but not petite, with a large top/shoulder/ribcage and 'slender' in the hip. I feel like I would get lost in this (my top does not need to be shown to be further out of proportion...

But if I had the guts/figure, this would make a beautiful, classic costume.

   Winter 1890-91

Austere at first glance, but the simplicity of this piece shifts focus to the beautiful lines of the fitted jacket, the soft drape of the skirt. The main appeal of this piece would be the emphasis on that classic silhouette. 

I believe the more plain pieces also appeal to me because of my obsession interest in the steampunk aesthetic (elaborate in tech, but simple in its often military-inspired base pieces).

Again, to do the jacket properly, will probably render this far to stifling for the summer heat (hopefully, in which this dress will be employed around my birthday-and Nikola Tesla's)!

            RIDING HABIT
               Spring 1891 

What can I say? LOVE LOVE LOVE this piece!!

Again, might be the utilitarian aspect of it. Could be also, without all the frills, the emphasis resides on construction and fit of the piece. Something that appeals to my seamstress side. It's far more difficult to put together a beautifully executed piece that shows of technique and skill without a bunch of lace and ruffles hiding your mistakes/possibly crooked topstitching, etc.

The front drape... also very cool.

It might possibly be that the lady in the sketch is wearing a top hat...

 Winter 1890-91

Also had to mention this piece, which had I easily found some appealing coat-weight wool whilst browsing fabric sites the other day, would've been more than just my recent obsession.

Perhaps, because it's been so cold. And this full length wrap-coat with fur trim looks just so, so warm.

And that it would've looked absolutely gorgeous against the pristine white snow might also have been a factor.

1 comment:

  1. Awesome piccies these will help me put together my steampunk outfit. Thanks for the research!